Part 1
  
-When to change strings...
 
-Removing the strings....
 
-Polishing...
-The Fingerboard...
 
Inspecting the Guitar...
_____

Part 2
 
-The Strings...
 
-Installing the Treble Strings to the Bridge...
 
-Installing the Bass Strings to the Bridge...
_____

Part 3

-Removing  string coiling....

-Installing Bass Strings to Tuners....

-Installing Treble Strings to Tuners....
_____

Part 4

Tune the guitar....

Methods of tuning....

-Stretching the strings.... 

Tune again....

-Final Polish....
 
-Final thought....
_____

Part 1

When to change strings...

     These eight week old strings on this guitar have been played extensively. The wound strings are discolored and are badly worn where they meet the frets. They should have been changed about six weeks ago because they lack the rich tones of  newer strings. The life span of strings vary from player to player. A moderate player may go four to six months on a set of strings, while a professional may change them almost daily.

__________________

Removing the strings...

     A string winder is used to remove the strings. On this guitar, all of the strings will be removed before the new strings are installed. This will allow access to areas previously inaccessible for easier cleaning. Ancient Myth- The neck is built to compensate tension, and removing the strings will warp it. Actually, a well made neck will go for months without tension and string up fine. Modern Myth- Releasing the tension will deaden the top. This is a well played guitar. The top will re-settle faster than the strings will settle.

__________________

Polishing...

     Polish hard-to-reach areas (bridge, bridge to sound hole, headstock...) with a name brand guitar polish and cheese cloth.

__________________

The Fingerboard...

     If the fingerboard appears dry, apply boiled linseed oil and wipe dry with new cheese cloth. Boiled linseed oil also will soften grime on the fingerboard for easier removal. Oiling the fingerboard about once a year will prevent cracking from dryness. Otherwise, rub down with clean, dry cheese cloth. (No polish is necessary.)  Steel wool is an abrasive. OOOO steel wool is not used on the frets.  It will dull the fingerboard and scratch the frets. If steel wool is necessary, mask off the fingerboard, steel wool the frets, and finish with a metal polish. Be sure to remove all polish residue. Frets should shine like chrome with no dents or scratches. Once you've played on highly polished frets, there's no turning back.

__________________

Inspecting the Guitar...

	Tuner mounting plates are flat to the headstock. Gears show no wear. Rollers are without cracks.
	Fingerboard nut is well shaped with no visible cracks or burrs. On some guitars the nut is held by only it's string tension. If you prefer it glued, use a tiny amount of Titebond glue to allow for easy removal later.
	Frets should be highly polished with no visible string wear. Fret ends are tight to the fingerboard.
	Neck joint has no separation from body.
	Body has no open cracks.
	Bridge saddle is smooth with no visible cracks.
	Bridge is well attached to the body. A thin piece of paper will reveal loose areas.
	Inspect braces with a mirror. (It is sometimes easier to find loose braces when the top is still under full tension.)

Part 1   Part 2   Part 3   Part 4   Next
 

Your Purchase of Sheet Music Helps Support this Site

Provided by
Classical Guitar Sheet Music & Tablature by b popek
...Classical  Guitar  transcriptions...
...in standard notation & tablature...
Since November 1, 2002
cgsmusic.net
Home Page